August 18, 2011

Balaklava (it took me most the day to learn how to say this and not call it Baklava) is an area of Sevastopol that became famous for the Battle at Balaklava in the Crimean war and the suicidal Charge of the Light Brigade where the British, due to a misunderstanding were sent into a valley where the Russian held three sides of it.

I knew very little of the Crimean war and what I learned on the way to Balaklava was fascinating.  It is clear that throughout history, Sevastopol is a strategic port to be held.  Russia who was trying to take control of the Ottoman empire used the port as a base for the Black Sea Fleet.  France and England sent troupes to make sure that the Russians did not secure a route from the Black Sea to the Mediterranean. Continue reading →

August 18, 2001

There is one fountain called the fountain of tears.  Alexander Pushkin wrote a famous poem after seeing the fountain which inspired a Russian Ballet.  The legend goes that Qırım Giray – an outstanding ruler and a fearless warrior – falls in love with a Polish beauty in his harem. According to the legend, he loved her more than anything else he loved in his life.  His happiness was short lived, the princess died, either poisoned by a jealous woman in the harem or unable to endure being part of a Harem. Deeply grieving, Qırım Giray buried his beloved Dilara with the highest honor, having erected a mausoleum over her grave.  Concerned that the leader was neglecting his affairs of state, the court commissioned the fountain to give the ruler an outlet for his grief.

The fountain appears to cry.  Every so often a few drips of water are released and it spreads through the various levels until it reaches the base of the fountain.

I had to wonder if this was just a legend or if there was actual history involved.   Was this a case of life imitating art imitating life?

Continue reading →

August 17th, 2011

We left the Dnieper river and entered the Black Sea.  Our ship, the Viking Lumonosov suddenly felt like the SS Minnow.  I might have to adjust my quest for the Ultimate Ukrainian Vodka until calmer waters – then again, maybe not.

As we approached Sevastopol, I could see pods of Dolphins swimming close to the boat. Of course whenever I pointed them out to the other people I was having lunch with, they disappeared.  My lunchmates thought I was playing a prank.  I was glad when a large pod went by and they all saw it.

Sevastopol is located on the Crimean peninsula on the Black Sea and it is the home of Russia’s Black Sea Fleet for over two centuries.  As this is no longer Russia, Russia leases the port and facilities from the Ukraine. As with many of Ukraine’s cities, Russia left its mark with plenty of Lenin statues and soviet housing which is falling apart.

Continue reading →

We had a class on making Wareniki, in Russian, Vareniki and for my family Pierogies.  Dumplings basically filled with mashed potatoes with several variations (cheese, onions).  It sounds boring but after boiling the dumpling you pan fry in butter and onions.  I always cook twice as much as I think I am going to need and I am lucky if there are any leftovers.

At the end of it, we had a sampling and as everyone rushed out, I stayed behind to ask Chef a question and he noticed that there were still some not eaten.  Needless to say, all the chef had to make was a slight gesture and moments later they were gone.

Better yet – what do you think the main course was at lunch?  I have had my fill of potato dumplings – that is unless they are going to have it as an option for dinner.

Continue reading →

August 16, 2011

Morning is my favorite part of the day and I have been waking up early.  I sneak up to the library which is situated on the first desk on the front of the ship.  It has a panoramic view and great air conditioning.  The last few mornings I have not been able to access the internet, which is just fine, I read!

The ship slowly comes to life and it starts with the walkers who walk around the ship.  At first just one or two but as breakfast gets underway, the deck is busy.

Last night, the program director indicated that 30 percent of the staff comes from Kherson, we will see a lot of families coming to the ship to visit bringing care packages and home cooked meals.  Earlier in the week when I toured the Galley, I asked about their employment. All personnel are under contract for 8 months and there is no time off.  I wondered what that must be like, you work 8 months with no time off and then you get 4 months free to re-acquaint yourself with your friends and family, then back to work.  The “Hotel Manager” indicated this was his 7th year with Viking. Continue reading →

Yesterday was spent sailing down the river. I  had no idea just how large the Dnieper river is.  There were times I could barely see the banks of the river.  It seemed as if I was on a like as opposed to a river.  The day was raining and overcast which made it a great day for doing nothing.  I read, took a tour of the ship’s galley and got some extra sleep in.

Zaporozhe is a strange place, one long city concentrated along one long street named Prospect of Lenin and along it is a huge statue of him overlooking the hydro-electric dam that was completed in 1932.  Eight water turbines and five generators were designed and manufactured in the United States by General Electric.  The other three generators were made at the Leningrad factory.  The General Electric turbines are still in use today.  This made Zaporozhe a strategic for Hitler to capture during WWII.  There is a definite soviet feel to this place.

During the tour my ears perked up when they started talking about the Mennonites. I remember the Amish and Mennonites while growing up back east.   Catherine the Great invited the Mennonites from Prussia to settle the area.  Today, there aren’t any Mennonites as they left or were deported after the Russian Revolution. Continue reading →

Kiev or Kyiv, is the birthplace of Russia.  Legend has it that three Slavic Brothers and their sister founded this city 1500 years ago.  It has played part in many empires and many rulers.  My first impression of Kiev during my landing was that it was a city surrounded by natural beauty and fertile farmlands.  Once in the city, it was clear that time had left its marks – the prosperous times and not so prosperous times and more recently the soviet influences.

I have read that Kiev may be the next Prague of Europe – time will tell if Kiev will reach that but one thing is clear, there is a lot of building and development going on.  Currently the city is preparing for the Soccer championships that will take place in 2012

Continue reading →

August 11 and 12, 2011

I got up and packed my things and then went for my last walk through Chelsea.  It was the perfect summer day, not too hot, not too humid and a nice breeze blowing.  While growing up in the Northeast, we dreamed of these days while we froze through the winter or melted in the humidity.  When there are so few of them, you really appreciate them.

I was not going to leave NYC with having a slice of pizza.  I picked up a couple and them for lunch and it was time for the car to pick us up and head out to JFK. Having earned Gold Star Alliance status does have it perks – checking and boarding was quick and easy. Continue reading →

I am heading to the Ukraine, to take a cruise down the Dnieper river on a Viking River cruise called the Footsteps of the Cossacks.  The cruise will start in Kiev (Kyev) and end in Odessa.

I chose this destination because I have already visited the Baltic states and Russia. Areas that have fascinating histories and borders that seem to continually change.  Although Kiev is considered the birthplace of Russia, Ukraine will turn 20 on August 24th, 2011 right after I leave.

I also wanted to see if Chicken Kiev is the same in Kiev as it is here in the states.  I must admit that I have taken a liking to Eastern European/Russian cuisine, but then again, there are not too many cuisines I don’t like or don’t like learning about.