Destinations

Old City Tallinn

 

estoniaoldcity2

September 16, 2006

The old part of Tallinn is as pretty as the old parts of the Vilnius and Riga. There were plenty of winding cobblestone streets that opened into squares.  There wasn’t of shortage of things to do.  For the shoppers in the group, there were plenty of places to buy amber, jewelry and wood crafts. For those into architecture, there were plenty of old buildings to look at, and for people like me, there were plenty of cafes to sit and watch the world go by while sipping a cup of coffee. Continue reading

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Tallinn

estonia_sm05September 16, 2006

The name Tallinn is thought to have come from Ancient Estonian meaning Danish Town.  It is the capital of Estonia with a population of approximately 500,000 people.

The first stop in the morning was Kadriog’s Palace which houses the Museum of Foreign Art. Peter the Great help build it himself. In the back of the museum there were beautiful gardens.   Part of the Palace complex has become home to the President of Estonia. Continue reading

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Turaida Castle

Turaidas Roze

Turaidas Roze

September 15, 2006

My stay in Riga was short. Our small tour group headed to Tallinn, Estonia first thing in the morning. On our way we stopped at the Turaida national reserve situated on the Guaja River in Sigulda. The reserve has a medieval castle, a sculpture park and a church. The locals call Sigulda “The Switzerland of Latvia”, The word “Turiada” means “God’s Garden” in the Livonian language.

In the churchyard of the Turaida Church, two lime trees shade the grave of “Turaidas Roze” with the dates 1601-1620. The legend is that Maija was a beautiful girl who was in love with Viktor, a local gardener. One day she was deceived by a man of polish decent who wanted to take her for himself. He lured her to a cave where he tried to force himself upon her. Maija challenged the man saying that her scarf was magic and if his sword could pass through her while wearing the scarf, the man could have her forever.

The man accepted the challenge and drew his sword killing her. The moral being love transcends death. Newlyweds visit the grave on their wedding day in hopes they experience the same eternal love she demonstrated to her beloved. Continue reading

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Old Town Riga

riga

September 14, 2006

There is more to Riga than just churches. The House of Blackheads was originally built for the Blackheads Guild of unmarried merchants. It was completely destroyed in WWII but rebuilt in 1998. The clock on the front of the structure, contains month and day as well as zodiac information. The creator of the original clock was blinded after creating it so that he could not create another one like it. The statue in front of the House of Blackheads is Roland, the medieval defender of the accused. The tip of his sword is said to mark the center of Riga. Continue reading

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Latvian Delights

September 14, 2006

A few of us stopped after our walking tour in Riga old town to try some hot chocolate. This was not the Hot Chocolate we know of in USA, this is HOT CHOCOLATE and I must admit, I really enjoyed it. The store was full of chocolate objects, even chocolate soccer balls. Continue reading

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Riga Churches

100_4884September 14, 2006

Our stay in Riga, Latvia was short but Old Town is so photogenic, I found myself taking a lot of pictures. As with any European town the most impressive things to see are usually the churches.

We started our walking tour at the church right next to the hotel, the Dome Cathedral. The cathedral dates back to 1211 but it has been destroyed, rebuilt, and renovated so many other times that the architecture is a composite of different architectural styles including Gothic, baroque, western and pseudo-Gothic.

As we entered the cathedral, the organist was practicing for the night concerts. There are 6718 pipes with one of the pipes being 30 feet in length. What surprised me was how full the sound of the organ was. Even in such a massive, open space, the sound filled the cathedral from one end to the other.

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Riga

latvia_sm05September 13, 2006

In between our stops at the Hill of Crosses, and the Rundale Palace our group saw stunning countryside full of tall pines and birch tress, small towns with and even a medieval castle. A relaxing drive which in between my working on organizing pictures, allowed me to doze off while listening to music and looking at a beautiful countryside.

We arrive in Riga around 5:00 PM local time and we checked into the Gutenbergs Hotel http://www.gutenbergs.lv/. Our tour guide would explain the next morning that the hotel was formerly a printing-house. I guess that explains why the heavy key chains are in the form of small books.

After check in, Allan and I went for a walk. The first thing I realized is that this city is aesthetically breathtaking and is going to be hard to capture in pictures. It was called the “New Paris” and like other European cities it has small narrow winding streets and squares with beer gardens and cafes.

Riga was founded in 1201 and is the capital city of Latvia. The population is about 750,000 and a major difference between here and other Europe destinations is that although there is plenty to see, there aren’t people selling books and postcards outside of every attractions or scores of tour buses lining up. As you will see from the pictures, the places aren’t packed with people. Continue reading

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The Hill of Crosses

100_4629September 13, 2006

We departed Vilnius at 9:00 AM and headed towards Riga, Latvia, our next destination.  Before leaving Lithuania, we stopped at the hill of crosses.  A small hill covered with millions of crosses.

The story of the hill goes like this – a father who was sitting by the bedside of his ailing daughter, had a dream in which a woman asked him to build a cross and to place on the hill.  In 13 hours, he made a heavy cross and placed it on the hill. When he returned home, his daughter was healed.  Other people hearing of the event began to place crosses on the hill.

During the Soviet occupation, religion was not allowed and the crosses were repeatedly destroyed.  However, during the night, people would bring new crosses.  It became a place of anonymous rebellion against the soviets and a symbol of the nation’s hope.

Crosses varied in size from the most simplistic form to extremely ornate.  I did find someone placed a large, encased metal Star of David on the hill.

 

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Rundale Palace – Latvia

100_4676September 13, 2006100_4670

We crossed the border into Latvia early afternoon and our first stop was the impressive Baroque Rundale Palace constructed between 1736 and 1740 as a summer residence of the Duke of Courtland Johann Baron.  It was constructed by Bartolomeo Rastrelli from Italy who also created the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg.

Although the palace could use some renovation it was a wonder to see.  As I looked at one of the rooms I thought, my entire house could fit in the one room.  It is not only the size that is amazing but the attention to detail.  Ceilings, entry ways and every corner was detailed with intricate plaster and wood work.

It wasn’t just about the inside of the palace, the gardens were amazing as well.  How much does it cost to maintain this today more or less in it’s time?  The staff has to be quite extensive.

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Lithuanian Food

100_4604September 13, 2006

I was very impressed by the food in Lithuania. I thought it would be rather bland and uneventful. but to my surprise, I really enjoyed it and even bought a cookbook. The central staple is potato (of course) that was prepared in just about every way imaginable including pancakes, dumplings, zeppelins, pies and sausage. I noticed a lot pork and curd cheese being used to flavor the dishes along with Dill.

Lunch on the first day consisted of cepelinai (meat filled potato dumplings) along with a hot broth. When I heard about it, I pictured a pierogi but the tour guide explained that the dumplings were baked so you could hold them in your hand and that Lithuanian version of the pierogie is the Koldunai.

Mushrooms also appear in a lot of dishes. I noticed while going to places outside of the city, there were many people walking with baskets going in and coming out of the forests, harvesting mushrooms. At the hotel, there was a really nice display of some of the largest mushrooms I have ever seen. Continue reading

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